By Tessa Solomon
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A lederhosen-clad yodeler wanders through the crowd. Eager teeth tear into a bratwurst. Children sip sweet Shirley Temples.

And everywhere, flowing and foaming, is beer: spicy ales, dark stouts, and crisp, pale lagers. The North Side’s Oktoberfest is back in town.

Now in its 20th year, the annual festival will be held from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday on the North Side. More than 4,000 people are expected to crowd that corner of town, enticed by food, games, and the chance to taste local, national, and imported brews.

The original Oktoberfest was held in Munich, Germany, on Oct. 12, 1810, at a royal wedding. It has since transformed into the world’s largest beer festival and funfair, with millions of people participating.

While not yet hitting 1 million visitors, Iowa City’s festival has grown, too. Before Oktoberfest was BrewFest, bouncing between locations before the Downtown District helped it settle in the North Side as a component of the new Oktoberfest, which also include SodaFest.

“We’re always working on expanding the festival,” said Betsy Potter, the Downtown District operations director. “We always want to add something new so people want to come back.”

More than a beer showcase, it is a celebration of the North Side’s business community.   

“Oktoberfest brings people in that might not know North Side of Iowa City exists; a lot of people don’t know about Pagliai’s, and Hamburg, and John’s,” said festival organizer Doug Alberhasky of John’s Grocery, 401 E. Market St. “This is a way to expose them to some of our most iconic businesses.”

In the past years, the North Side’s street access has been shut down during Oktoberfest. Passersby had to make the long trek around the gated festival to reach any North Side business.

“This year, it’s going to be an open festival,” Alberhasky said. “You don’t necessarily need a ticket to BrewFest to go to George’s to watch the game.”

While tickets are required to taste the brews, people can easily reach their destination or enter the festival.

Musical performances will also experience a change.

“We’ve transitioned away from having a main stage,” Potter said. “That’s brought us smaller acts that are more authentic to the feel of the festival, ones that we can set up on a corner and add to the ambience.”

From the Polka Dots to the bluesy Tanya English Band, every act is locally based, keeping in the spirit of a neighborhood celebration. 

“You don’t really need to bring somebody from out of town; there’s plenty of talent right here in Iowa City,” said Andrew Epstein, a member of the Fried Egg String Band, who is playing Oktoberfest.                     

Hamburg Inn, Linn Street Café, Motley Cow, and Pop’s Old ’N’ New Barbecue are among the North Side vendors providing treats and home-cooked German cuisine. Pulled pork, smoked chicken, brisket, and bratwurst are on Pop’s menu.

“Our owner is very adamant about keeping this in Iowa City,” said Michael Malloy, one of Pop’s two kitchen managers. “We’re really excited to be a part of Oktoberfest and be a part of this community.”

Having grabbed a bite, ticket holders and walk-ins can follow the Iowa versus Wisconsin football game on the large HD screen or enjoy the festival’s games.

The family equivalent to BrewFest, SodaFest, opens at 10 a.m. Pumpkin decorating, rock-climbing, and big-wheel racing are among the activities.

“[Alberhasky] wanted to have a big outdoor festival for kids, too, and figured doing it the same time as Oktoberfest would be nice,” said Jill Donnenwerth, the developmental coordinator at the Iowa Children’s Museum. “If you have two parents who come, one parent can check out BrewFest, and the other can come over to SodaFest with the kids.”

For $5, visitors can sample five of 25 funky soda flavors in plastic SodaFest cups. Each additional ticket costs 50 cents.    

The Iowa Children’s Museum is this year’s major fundraising recipient, along with local civic and school groups volunteering. In past years, Oktoberfest has raised more than $20,000.

Adult Games, sponsored by Little Village, include a Beer Slide, Keg Bowling, and the official Hammerschlagen, a game involving inebriated people attempting to drive nails into a stump with a blunt mallet.

This year will also feature the first Real Ale contest.

“I’ve got 12 different beers that breweries have made one-off products for us,” Alberhasky said. “They’re normal beers with unique twists on them.”

While general admission tickets are $40, BrewMaster tickets can be purchased for an extra $10. BrewMasters will be able to vote in the contest for their favorite ales. They will also receive a special souvenir 20th-anniversary glass and complimentary Tailgate shirt. 

With $15,000 to $18,000 of beer donated for the festival, the organizers are making sure the breweries feel appreciated.

“The brewers have to have a good experience, too; otherwise, we don’t have a festival,” Alberhasky said. “They need to know if they put time and money and beer into the event, they will see people enjoying their beer later.”

What: Oktoberfest
Where: North Side Neighborhood. Entrances at North Linn and intersection of Market & Gilbert Streets
When: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday
Tickets: $40-$50